In The Press
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Manny's a good choice for sports enthusiasts
Take away lots of pretty art, insert a television for every few feet of wall space (plus, a few propped on tables) and you've got Manny's version of the space that used to be Beaumonts.
Manny's ?? a sports bar where some people go to drink a cold beer, eat a bite and watch a game. It is also a restaurant, which represents a dining establishment for most people.
Since I and my guests fell into the second category on this visit, the proliferation of televisions broadcasting a potpourri of basketball games was unnerving and invasive. At least, the sound was kept to a minimum and allowed for a steady stream of joyful Greek music that played in the background.
A friend made the case that until Manny's arrival, downtown was in need of another good sports bar, serving respectably good food. In short, that is probably why it chose to open a second restaurant here (the other is in West Ashley) last October. It saw an opportunity to fill this alleged downtown sports bar gap.
Gorgeous deco style lighting at the bar, a romantic patio, and a couple of cheery paintings of older gentlemen shooting the breeze, render Manny's a lot more elegant than most sports bars. But the TVs, a lot of smoke and laminate tablecloths are there to remind you why most people come to Manny's.
The usual greasy, gooey bar food that nearly everyone likes (cheese fries, nachos, chicken fingers and burgers galore) show up on the menu. A lot of emphasis, happily, is also placed on Greek food, which is what we focused on. Initially, our waitress pushed for orders but soon settled into a smooth, friendly rhythm that was most enjoyable. A young woman with a lot of energy and a kind presence, she was thoroughly familiar with the food and offered several suggestions that generally proved to be well-founded.
She was particularly zealous about N.C.-based Shelton Vineyards wines featured by the restaurant that evening. She hit the mark with a nicely priced Chardonnay ($28) with flavor that was stunningly good, especially when considering its uncommon origin.
As a child, I knew a boy named Manny Mello. His Greek mother was a fabulous cook and made firm, pungent grape leaves stuffed with rice, ground meat and seasoning. These were the absolute best. I was dreaming about them as I ordered some here. These weren't like Mrs. Mello's. Six small packets of watery grape leaves ($3.99) were very small and very limp. The only discernable filling was rice and the lemony butter sauce wasn't able to resuscitate them beyond average taste.
Conversely, the spanakopita ($4.79) and a Mediterranean trio of tsaziki, hummus and babaganouj ($7.99.) were quite nice. The spanakopita was served in the form of two triangles of golden brown pastry stuffed with feta and spinach. A large portion for the price, it would make a filling lunch with a light salad. I'd love to see a little bit more acid flavor, like lemon, for an even better finish. Tsaziki is that glorious Greek condiment made with yogurt and/or sour cream, cucumbers and onion. It often dresses up a gyro. On this plate, it made a lip-smacking-good dipping sauce for triangles of warm, supple pita bread. The sauce was well-seasoned, thick enough to eat with a fork and as creamy as an irresistible cloud. The babaganouj, an eggplant puree, was a fine dip except for a mild graininess throughout. The hummus had an even more substantial element of grit, which I theorized may have come from tired tahini, so I passed on this after my first try.
Our waitress heartily endorsed the filet entree ($11.99, 8 oz.) but having an appetite for Greek classics, we stuck with that theme and experienced mixed results.
The common denominator was massive portions. Souvlaki, ($9.49) marinated pork tenderloin medallions layered with the fresh flavors of lemon and thyme, was gratifying. Chunky cubes of tender, similarly seasoned potatoes completed this hearty, though completely colorless dish. Gyro meat was the backbone of two dishes -- a platter and the low carb special (both $8.49). The razor-thin slices of compressed lamb and seasonings were moist and served warm. A tad salty, this was easily remedied with more of the silky tsaziki. Half of a baked Greek-style chicken completed the protein portion of the low carb plate. Its golden color and crispy skin had great eye appeal, but the chicken itself was dreadfully dry, too much so for even tsaziki to help. Shrimp and spaghetti ($9.49) got a big boost from excellent grilled shrimp. The pasta was limp and swimming in an mix of olive oil and butter that was flavored generously with garlic.
Filled to the gills by now, the prospect of dessert seemed daunting. The selections cover the international gamut, the only Greek choice being Baklava ($3.29). It was also the most diminutive, so we determinedly nibbled on the tiny triangle of phyllo dough, chopped nuts, honey and butter. A delicate sifting of ground cinnamon was festive. The pastry itself was stale, dead cold and difficult to cut, let alone eat. It should be light, airy and just plain sinfully good at its buttery best.
Manny's may not serve Greek food like Mrs. Mello made, but it's still Greek, and some Greek food is better than no Greek food at all in a town where it's a relative rarity. With plenty of drinks, plenty of food and plenty of games to choose from, Manny's is poised to fill your belly and your entertainment needs for a modest price.
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